
Jet-Settlers
Not Tourists. Temporary Locals.
Jennie & Eric Ossentjuk:
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Our "Year of Living Around the World"
(in 3 parts)
Someday isn’t promised. Steve Jobs said it at Stanford, Biggie said it to Puff Daddy in the intro to "Born Again" and some version of that sentiment is at least one person’s quote in everyone’s yearbook, fact check it. Easy to say for those with the blissful inexperience of an 18-year-old trying to sound deep for future yearbook readers but hard to do unless you have Jobs’/Biggie money.
The mindset that has been ingrained in us from day one is to work when you can, save as much money as you can and when you stop working spend it as wisely as you can. All good advice if death wasn’t looming in the shadows waiting to mess with that plan. Statistics vary on how many people die with more or the same amount of money as they had when they retired. Whatever the percentage (40%-80%) its surprisingly high.
Eschewing the foundational dogma that says to “play it safe”, is however what we intend to do. Not in a crazy “live like there is no tomorrow” way but in a “remember your time is limited, don’t take it for granted” way. We’re not the first nor the last to do this and I am not trying to brag like we invented traveling and living abroad for a period after retirement. Also, we are cognizant of the fact that this is not something that anyone can do, "we’re rich bitch”, not really, but it takes money to travel and I get that, everyone doesn’t want to spend their limited money or time on traveling.
Our general goal is to spend twelve months abroad, in twelve distinct locations getting to know the places we live during those twelve months better than we would usually do on trips where, typically, we spend at most three or four days in any city.
We are breaking the twelve months down into three four-month periods because (playing it safe already!) being away for twelve months straight seemed to be a little much logistically. Anyway, based on the self-important notion that anyone cares enough to, follow along as we attempt to outrun the specter of our own mortality, waste our children’s inheritance and spend the back nine, not counting strokes but taking a long scenic route to the 19th hole.
How We Chose Our Locations
(the iterations)

The first list of places to go was created at a bar called Bella Luna in 2019 on a placemat, likely over a few gin and tonics. But for years the trip itself existed only in our minds and in the multiple iterations of the itinerary, which we would update from times-to-time, more to keep the idea alive than out of a need to actually update the itinerary. The list of 12 countries with the particular places filled in under their matching month on the (eventually) 18-month calendar felt distant and perpetually "someday." It’s a strange, almost superstitious feeling—being so close to embarking on this three-part journey that I'm afraid to talk about it too much, fearing that saying it aloud might jinx the plan we've cultivated over these last six years.
Choosing the places for the first list was easy. There are so many places to go and so many places we haven’t been that finding 12 was not hard. Like usual I lobbied for the more adventurous locations and Jennie leaned more toward cities and culture.
Months were assigned to each country, and a theme was decided on. This trip was to be a shift from our typical pace; instead of our usual three- or four-day city-hopping, we would give ourselves an entire month per location, carefully chosen to align with the best weather. The goal to stop being visitors and start living there, finding the local market, our favorite bar, and to the extent possible learn the rhythm of the place.
Over 6 years the list has been revisited, first to narrow it down to cities as opposed to counties, which better reflects the theme of getting to know a place. Next some revisions were needed to take places we’ve subsequently visited into consideration. The biggest changes took place as the trip came closer and became more of a reality. We had to reflect on what life would be like in certain counties for a month with no car for most of the time. Certain places that seemed like cool places to get to know might become confined after a month, especially if there was limited public transportation. Some cities might also fit better in the three- or four-day visit category and not warrant a month-long stay. - Eric
The First 4 Months
(aka: part 1)

GOAL: Live Like Locals
Day 1 - The Lows and Highs of travel. Waking up in Camden without the typical urgency of a vacation itinerary, whether self-imposed or relayed by the Tour Guide or Rabbi the night before, is already unique - the only rule is there are no rules.
Getting here, after a wonderful farewell family dinner at Borgo in NYC; exemplified the highs and lows traveling. First, our daughter Erinn dropped us off at our hotel in the fairly seedy part of Queens near JFK and we said our goodbyes only to discover the place has no reservation for us - they took one (the easy part) but didn’t hold it (the hard part). I guess we made the reservation with a card that was deactivated and there may have been communication between the hotel and Booking.com but not communication between anyone and us. No reservation or resolution there (every time Jennie asks to “see the manager”I wish our granddaughter Valerie was with us, she loves those “Karen” moments). Forced to walk a quarter mile dragging the luggage through the broken bottle strewn streets of Queens, with every step meaning less sleep before our 5:50 wake up, the clerk, after much consternation and conversation, mostly with himself, gets us a bed. In bed by 1 and up again soon after. In our younger days it may have paid to save the $300 and “sleep” at the airport.
The rest of the initial journey, the part, for good reason, everyone dreads, could not have gone better. Shuttle to the airport NP, check in no line (thanks Virgin Atlantic) quickly through security (thanks TSA Pre-check) flight boards early and leaves on time, no line on the tarmac at Kennedy (WTF). The flight attendant makes his first announcement to say - no, not there is a delay or turbulence, but “we’ll have you on the ground and off the plane early so you can catch the World Cup semifinal”. Pickup at the airport, smooth, no traffic of any kind anywhere, literally everyone is at a pub or in front of their tv watching the game. Get the key to the air bnb throw the luggage and as we leave there is a collective cheer from the whole town as England goes up 1 nil.
Quickly get to the Colonel Fawcett Pub grab a beer find a place to stand and the place is going crazy singing (Hey Jude when they show Jude Bellingham for instance) shouting, cursing - it’s England like it’s meant to be. Within one 5 minute period Messi & co. end all that. Two goals and the vibe is f$#ked. There goes our hope of celebrating on the 19th, no more singing - much more swearing, we finish the beers and get out as the locals curse decisions made by the coach that I don’t understand. We grab some fish and chips (see receipt from our 1st meal) to go and walk back - Jennie comments that the neighborhood has a “Sweeney Todd” vibe, I like it; I won’t need a haircut while we’re here anyway. ~ Eric
Day 28 - Bags packed and checked, sitting in the airport lounge prepared to leave London after the first 28-day leg of our journey, we are heading toward Luxembourg hoping to catch a clear view of this evening’s solar eclipse. Time to reflect on the first lessons of our long term travel plan. The spacious, flexible schedule was a huge success, but the budget may need some fine tuning, our communication with home needs work and we forgot to book to our flight from Luxembourg to Stockholm, so nobody’s perfect.
What Worked: The Luxury of a Flexible, Schedule. On our previous three or four-day trips, vacationing felt like the Amazing Race at times, where every single minute is scheduled with military precision. Missing a train connection, or realizing a certain museum is sold out for a particular morning time slot felt like a disaster and, especially in a place like London in the summer, the next museum queue was always looming. Our 28-day stay eliminated that frantic relationship with the clock. It allowed us to schedule and experience certain things we wouldn’t otherwise have been able to fit in on previous three day visits.
When we discovered that the permanent David Bowie collection wasn't at the main South Kensington building but was instead located entirely on its own at the new David Bowie Centre at the V&A East Storehouse in Stratford, there was no need to panic. We scheduled a visit for a few days later and spent a casual morning traveling across the city to see the exhibit and have Sunday roast in a part of London we’d not previously visited.
When, after doing some research upon our arrival we realized that certain bands were playing throughout London and Wales that it would be great to see live, instead of bemoaning the fact we wouldn’t be here long enough to see them, we were able to go to Wales to see the Sex Pistols and three weeks into our stay, to King's Cross to watch the Red Hot Tribute Peppers (obviously a Chili Peppers cover band) play at The Water Rats, a historic pub where bands like the Pogues and Oasis as well as Bob Dylan made their UK debuts.
We had the time to create and curate multiple specialized walking tours, and discover quirky places we cared about but few others may have (the sight of the Chelsea Drugstore from - You Can’t Always Get What you Want - to name one, there’s not even a store there anymore).
Our final days captured the beauty of our new, unhurried pace. We went to the gym both days, took our daily walks along the canal, and still had plenty of time for a relaxed tour of Parliament and rounded out our stay with a leisurely afternoon tea then spent our final evening having dinner and a show (Hadestown) in the West End.
Works in Progress
Of course, a month on the road isn't entirely seamless. We realized a few days in that we had forgotten to book a flight for the second leg of our trip (quickly remedied), we are still working out the cost and timing of communicating with everyone back home (an extra hour ahead in Stockholm, now the fantasy football drafts are at 1 & 3 am!). Except for communicating with Valerie, who calls at all times of the day or night, her school has started now so that may change.
Also, we are undeniably over budget. Some of that comes down to the learning curve of pacing your daily spending over weeks rather than days, a lot of it is simply because London is an incredibly expensive city to inhabit and some is attributable to necessarily booking travel for the upcoming legs of our trip while still traveling.
Surprisingly London provided 28 straight days of sunshine without a single drop of rain. Great for traveling, terrible for the city’s water supply, and definitely a new personal record for Jennie and me. Leaving our Camden Town Airbnb this morning felt like leaving home, indicating that, despite a few missteps the first leg worked out exactly how we drew it up and hoped it would feel.
Day 57 -When we left London, Jennie was sad and said she was going to miss it. Now we are leaving Stockholm, and Jennie is sad again, ready to miss this place too. I guess that means we did something right in choosing our first two destinations. The thirty-day slow travel model is still holding up well.
London and Stockholm share several similarities as the largest cities in their respective countries, yet they differ in size, transit, food, and cost. London is by far the larger and more bustling city with a population of 9.1 million compared to Stockholm's 1 million. Both benefit from extensive public transportation networks, though Stockholm's system feels more modern, far-reaching, and diverse, offering seamless access to the inner city, commuter trains, and inter-island ferries under a single pass. Both boast exciting culinary scenes, though London's is the more established and diverse of the two. Finally, while both destinations are expensive, Sweden edges out as slightly more costly overall.
Where Stockholm truly stands out, however, is its physical beauty. The water, the sky, and the architecture form a combination unlike any city I can recall visiting. It recently landed at number eight on a beauty ranking list, trailing Cape Town at number one and Sydney at number three, both of which happen to be upcoming stops on our itinerary.
Our time in Stockholm struck a wonderful balance between typical tourist adventures and living like a local, all managed without a sense of urgency. Over the last month, we took a day cruise to the Aland Islands, went mushroom foraging outside the city, ate our entire haul, and lived to tell the tale. We enjoyed dinner with friends we also met up with in London, attended a secret movie screening where we bought tickets blind, took a day trip to Uppsala, and bought last-minute tickets to catch a musical performed mostly in Swedish. Of course, there were occasional frantic moments, like deciding to run to a play only forty-five minutes before curtain or hustling for a connecting train, but these were balanced by hours of relaxation hanging out in the apartment.
Living this way has triggered a few interesting shifts in our daily habits. I have never scrolled on my phone so much in my life, whether checking sports scores, managing the website, tracking the news, or simply mindlessly scrolling, a habit I never had before. On the flip side, television viewing has dropped to almost zero, while reading has steadily climbed, even if tracking down books in English proves to be tricky.
Now, in these final days of winding down, the familiar dilemma is hitting us: it feels like there are a million things left to do, or things we did once and meant to repeat, despite having a full thirty days to accomplish them. We are actively resisting the urge to turn the finish line into a sprint. Instead, we are looking forward with excitement to our next chapter and perhaps a bed we can both fit on. Swapping big-city life for a small village and the beach will be a fascinating, perhaps challenging, gear shift, but Stockholm is getting colder and we are more than ready for the sand and the sound of ocean waves.
Day 88 - Two days left in Greece, then on to South Africa. It’s going to be strange not to simply walk outside and see Lindos’ Acropolis looming directly over us or to look in one direction and glimpse the wine-dark Mediterranean and the other and gaze upon the stark rocky cliffs that loom above the village. I’m sure the scenery that’s in store for us in Cape Town will dampen whatever longing we have for the beauty of Lindos once we’re gone but the hike we took this afternoon and the breathtaking views we experience by just stepping outside won’t be easy to match.
Three months in and I’m not sure how we’re doing living like locals. Although one sign that we are becoming at least a bit like locals is our increasing annoyance at the crowds of “tourists” who clog the narrow village street beginning with when the first bus/boat disgorges them. Our annoyance may even be slightly more pronounced, since Jennie and I, unlike the vast majority of Lindians, stand no chance of profiting when a person stops dead in their tracks clogging the alley they were traversing like a stubborn donkey refusing to take one more step on its way up the steep narrow path to the Acropolis (there are those too), it only delays our walk to the beach.
We have found our footing to some extent. We now have two fairly flat walking paths we can access to exercise, the Lindos overlook, which does require a steep uphill climb to get to and the trail that leads to the Tomb of Cleobulus, although Jennie will only go to the windmill. We’ve spent nearly every Friday at the Lindos Princess, an all-inclusive resort where, for a reasonable price, we can use the gym, the spa and the beach, while partaking of their buffets for all three meals. The bartender at La Presidenta, unsolicited, provided us with a stellar list of the restaurants we should try in Lindos and we are working through that. This is all without mentioning the beach and restaurant at Panos, the highlight of our stay based on: the beauty of “Megalos Gialos” (no one calls it that) the main beach in Lindos, which Jennie claims is her favorite beach ever, the excellence of the cuisine and the friendliness of the staff, we’ve spent a few days a week there since our arrival and those will be missed, when it’s mid-spring in Cape Town. We also spent a weekend in the wine country of Embonas and one day at a cooking class (really a day drinking outing) in Archangelos.
The hesitation with believing we have achieved our goals is that locals, for the most part, work, we don’t. Locals know other people in the local area, aside from a few bartenders we’ve met in our first three months we really don’t. Locals have limited free time we don't, locals have cars and microwaves and stocked fridges and likely aren’t eating out at least once a day or spending one day a week on a day pass at an all inclusive resort (it’s an idea though), which leads to our fluctuations between an amazing gourmet dinner one night and Jennie announcing, “I’m having fava beans (canned I might add) and peanut butter for lunch” the next day.
It might really be that we are learning how to “slow travel,” an approach that prioritizes spending extended time in a place rather than rushing through a packed checklist of sightseeing spots, although there is a “living like a local” vibe inherent in slow travel as well, as opposed to truly attempting to live like locals. Maybe it’s a distinction without a difference or maybe there is no definition necessary. Just get up every day gaze out at the impossibly blue sea and eat your canned fava beans for lunch with the knowledge that tonight it’s taramosalata, feta saganaki with honey and sesame, and seafood moussaka, just like a local.


Every photo holds a moment we don’t want to forget









Highlights & Recommendations
Reflections From the Road
Traveling in retirement has taught us that slowing down opens the door to deeper experiences. Staying present, lingering longer, and allowing plans to change has made each journey richer and more meaningful.
As always, we’re grateful for the freedom to explore and for the chance to share these moments with you. We hope this story encourages you to travel — whether far from home or just a little closer to where you already are.
With gratitude, Jennie & Eric Ossentjuk
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SCAMS: FORWARNED IS FOREARMED
When you travel, scams are just as much a part of the landscape as they are at home, but your vulnerability multiplies in an unfamiliar place. At home, where you speak the language and use familiar currency, people still fall prey to scams, such as phishing scams, telemarketers, and fake checks, among many others. On the road, you may be jet-lagged, and you are almost definitely dealing with an unfamiliar environment, currency, and culture. Your guard is down, you are anxious, and your desire to be polite and culturally appropriate is heightened. This is where the classic "con man," or confidence man, thrives.
A seemingly well-intentioned local might strike up a conversation, learn you are looking for a last-minute tour of the rainforest, and suddenly reveal they are a guide or know "just the guy." You pay a deposit, and they vanish. Or, they show up and you take a subpar tour where they pocket a substantial commission you could have easily avoided. Other times, the hustle is more subtle. A friendly, English-speaking local at a Vietnamese bus station spots your guidebook, politely asks if you need help, and assists by pointing you toward a bus bound for your destination, which you dutifully confirm with the bus driver. You get on and go, thanking the stranger profusely, only to realize later that you were intentionally misdirected onto a longer, non-direct route just so your helpful guide could secure a small kickback from the driver. To avoid these situations when you are on the road, you have to understand some of the tactics and prepare yourself before you step out of your comfort zone.
Travel broadens the mind, and I do not want to put anyone off traveling or create a scenario where a traveler is paralyzed by fear, spending more time watching out for scams than enjoying the trip. Being scammed a little is, in my opinion, unavoidable, not always worth the effort it takes to avoid, and in some cases can even lead to amusing anecdotes you repeat to fellow travelers in the future as a type of "war story" from the road. You are destined to pay a tourist markup in many cases because of where you are and how you are perceived, so my advice is to let the little ones go.
But just as travel broadens the mind, it can open your wallet unnecessarily. This is a case where to be forewarned is to be forearmed. If you understand the psychology of the con and learn how to verify information independently, you will be able to protect yourself and your money without spending your day sitting at the pier in Tangier, too afraid to venture out.
The Major Categories of Travel Scams
1. The "Helpful" Guide
Misdirection is the key here. The guide purposely misdirects you to longer transit routes, fake ticket offices, specific taxis, restaurants, or certain tours just to earn a kickback from the businesses they steer you toward.
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The Fix: Look for official signage. Ask at a help desk inside the airport or at your hotel front desk before you even step onto the street. Technology is your friend here. Use reputable travel apps, online maps, and real-time online passenger information displays, or bus and train schedules, to confirm exactly how to get where you are going, down to the exact departure time and route number, or where the restaurant is located.
2. They Know Exactly What You Want
In certain destinations, most travelers are looking to see the exact same attractions or eat at the same famous spots. This friendly local knows your intended itinerary as well as you do. A con man may try to steer you away from your destination and toward shops, restaurants, or tours that pay them a commission, which usually cost you more and are not what you wanted. You will hear things like, "The Reclining Buddha is closed today, but I know a better place," or you will find copycat restaurants in India that have adopted the exact same name, or a very similar name, as the famous spot you are searching for.
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The Fix: Pre-book your tickets online or check official schedules and operating hours using trusted platforms like Tripadvisor or verified hotel travel desks.
3. The Fake Authority Figure
This person stands in a spot where you would naturally expect an authority figure to be stationed, often wearing an official-looking badge or name tag. They will ask to see your passport and claim there is a hidden fee or fine owed before you can proceed.
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The Fix: Resist handing your wallet or passport over to anyone, especially on the street in an informal setting. Many travel advice sites warn to never hand over your passport for any reason. Frankly, I find that impossible to comply with. Certain hotels legally need to make copies. On past trips, I have had a guide or even a bus driver collect everyone's passports in order to get us through customs expeditiously. It is a judgment call. Sometimes, showing a little resistance to giving it up will lead to an alternative solution; other times, you have to go with your gut. I assumed the bus driver at the Nicaraguan border was not going to abscond with the passports belonging to every passenger on the bus, and he did not.
4. The Distraction Technique
This is a well-known tactic, but it is still incredibly easy to miss when it is actively happening to you. Scammer groups will create a scene: a street performance, a fake fight, an artificial diversion, someone dropping coins, or someone asking you to help them read a map. While you are looking at the commotion, an accomplice picks your pocket or slips your bag from underneath your seat at a Buenos Aires bus station.
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The Fix: Secure your valuables in an inner zippered pocket or a secure money belt. If a distraction occurs, keep your hands on your belongings. Do the same when walking through heavy crowds, especially around street performers. Do not go out of your way to be helpful until you have fully assessed the situation and are certain it is safe to do so.
5. Super Aggressive Touts
What do Cairo, Marrakech, Jaipur, Paris, and Siem Reap have in common? Touts are everywhere, but certain areas in these cities are frequently cited as having the most aggressive touts in the world. They will relentlessly crowd your personal space, aggressively trying to force you into taking camel or horse rides into the desert, or pushing unwanted tours and transport options. Before traveling, I thought the word tout had to do with betting, but it comes from a word for a lookout, as in these people are looking out for travelers to approach and try to sell stuff to.
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The Fix: Everyone suggests a firm response, but obviously the touts have read the playbook. They try not to be deterred by a basic refusal, so you must try to be highly assertive. Just do not panic, especially if you have shown a modicum of interest and now the touts are multiplying. Walk away like you know where you are going, and do not feel bad about ignoring them. If you do not know where you are going, that is another issue. There is nothing worse than having to ask an aggressive tout for directions, but it happens. If you must engage them for help, they can usually point the way, but they will also take it as an opportunity to play on your sympathies, so it is a trade-off.
The Golden Rules of Scam Prevention
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Do Your Homework Early: Read up on Reddit travel threads and forums before you go. Google the specific scams common to that country or city. If a scam has worked in the past, its use will likely continue. Before you visit a country, do some research and find out whether bargaining is normal practice, if tipping is customary, what a taxi from the airport should roughly cost, and whether taxis are normally metered or if it is more of a flat-fee bargaining situation. Ask your hotel what a cab or ride-share should cost to get to your destination and back. Do not be paranoid; just be forewarned. If the actual cost ends up being a little bit more, live with it. It is not an exact science.
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Learn the Art of an Assertive "No": Master saying "no" firmly while continuing to move forward. You might occasionally miss a genuine interaction, but you can avoid dozens of aggressive sales pitches and potential trouble. It is an art form you can practice anywhere, from the beaches of Kenya to the Pyramids of Giza. If you do choose to engage, know exactly what you want and be completely willing to walk away. Say no clearly, keep your stride, and never look back.
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Refuse Unscheduled Route Detours: If you do choose to engage, know exactly what you want and be completely willing to walk away. Say no if your driver wants to make an unscheduled stop to show you "local artisans" or pull over for a meal you did not ask for. You will not always avoid this, and if you are interested, feel free to partake, but firmness is key.
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Verify, Don't Just Trust: We all want to trust people. In the end, the uncomfortable feeling you have when a local gives you advice and is proven right, even though you doubted them, is a very small price to pay for the times you successfully avoid taking a rainforest tour with a guide who does not know a snake from a stick.
There is always going to be a certain amount of markup or advantage-taking when you are on the road. Like I said, do not make your trip a paranoid quest to avoid every single tourist markup ever concocted. Just do not be uninformed. When you have a solid sense of control over your surroundings, it makes a massive, positive impact on how much you actually enjoy the journey.
P.S. The Wild West of Taxis
Taxis deserve their own special mention because transit is the absolute easiest place to get taken for a ride, both literally and financially. From the broken meter trick to the "scenic route" detour, cab scams are a global rite of passage. Here is how to keep them honest, though as a side note, sometimes it cannot be done:
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Bypass the Street with Apps: The single best protection against taxi scams is technology. Whenever possible, use local ride-hailing apps like Uber Uber, Grab Grab, or Bolt Bolt. The price is locked in, the route is tracked via GPS, and no cash changes hands. It can be hit or miss as to whether these drivers know exactly where you are going since they are many times over-reliant on their GPS, so attempt to confirm with them where you are going and that they know where it is (they will always say they do) before the trip starts. Then, if you end up in the wrong location and have to reroute, you will at least have a better argument to make about why you should not be charged for an additional ride. In these cases, a dispute filed directly with the company will often result in a refund if you were charged for a second ride. Also, in some countries, ride-share apps do not get you any cheaper fares than standard taxis, and in other countries, the apps simply call a regular taxi. At least in the former scenario, you get a set fare you can pay electronically.
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Agree on the Rules Before You Get In: If you must use a traditional taxi, never close the door until the price is settled. Ask, "Meter or flat rate?" If they claim the meter is broken, ask them to fix it or get out, or agree on the flat rate and live with it. If it is a flat-rate city, agree on the total price for all passengers and luggage before the car moves.
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Watch out for the "Wrong Change" Sleight of Hand: A classic trick involves you handing over a large bill, only for the driver to quickly drop it, swap it for a much smaller note, and claim you underpaid. When paying with large bills, look the driver in the eye, hand over the note, and say the denomination out loud: "Here is a fifty."
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The "Shared Fare" Bait-and-Switch: In many places, it is common practice to share a larger taxi or a shuttle van with other travelers heading in the same direction. The scam happens when a driver quotes a low total price, but once you arrive, they claim that price was per person, not for the whole group. If you are sharing a ride with others, whether they are strangers or friends, explicitly clarify the financial terms before loading your bags. Point to the group and ask, "Is this price for all of us together, or per seat?" Get a clear answer from the driver before you pull away.
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The Danger of Splitting Cabs to Different Destinations: Trying to share a cab with other travelers who are heading to different locations almost never works out fairly. If you are going to the exact same destination, you can easily make a deal between yourselves beforehand. But if you are going to different places, even if they are right near each other, the math gets messy fast. In a perfect world, you would split the fare proportionally at the first stop, and the second person would pay the remaining balance between the two places. What actually happens is much less honest. The driver accepts the full fare from the first group, leaves the meter running, and then demands the full fare all over again from the second group. In a foreign country with a steep language barrier, setting up a complex, multi-stop split before the car starts moving is incredibly difficult to communicate. Save yourself the headache: if you are not going to the exact same drop-off point, get your own cab.
Our Experiences
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Unscheduled Driver Delays: We experienced multiple variations of unscheduled delays by private drivers. This included detours to see ceramics or other crafts globally, stopping to see civet cats where they make coffee out of their feces in Bali, and a driver stopping to eat in Vietnam when we refused to eat, resulting in the driver sitting around smoking while we waited.
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The "Closed Attraction" Good Samaritans: Locals falsely telling you attractions are closed, such as the Reclining Buddha in Thailand, or intentionally misdirected to the wrong bus in Vietnam. This has happened multiple other times that we cannot immediately recall.
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The Ha Long Bay Floating Restaurant Trap: Falling for the isolated floating restaurant trap in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam. They lure you in with a "free boat ride" out to the restaurant. Once there, you hand-pick a fish right from a holding tank built into the floor. The trap closes when they weigh it: seafood is priced by the kilo, and they purposely cook a massive portion far larger than you wanted. Because you are isolated on the water, there is no way back to dry land without paying their heavily inflated bill unless you plan on swimming back. We fell for this and paid a lot more than we should have.
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Fake Tour Guides: Encountering fake guides in Thailand at Khao Yai, where we caught it in time, and at Manuel Antonio in Costa Rica, where we unfortunately fell for it.
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General Misdirection: Experiencing intentional misdirection by almost every tuk-tuk driver in Thailand and plenty of regular cab drivers. While some we fell for and some we did not, it was usually not that expensive, just annoying.
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Cloned Business Names: Dealing with copycat establishments, a tactic India is famous for. For example, “Pehelwan Lassi” is famous in Varanasi for having many imitation spots on the same street operating under the exact same or highly similar names.
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Over-Aggressive Touts: Confronting intense hawkers in all of the cities named above and many more. When visiting Giza, they will aggressively try to force you into taking camel or horse rides into the desert or sell you trinkets. There were special tourist police on camels and horses carrying small quirts to keep the touts away, but the touts would simply circle right back as soon as the police looked the other way. The authorities have tried to remedy some of this by creating a more organized way to access the Giza area, but we will believe it when we see it.
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Taxis in Rhodes. While Greek taxis are technically supposed to use meters, none on Rhodes do putting you at their mercy for a fixed price to some extent. At some taxi stands there are boards which show the fixed price to most of the common destinations. Even with the fixed (surely already inflated) price depicted in big letters in plain view most of the drivers have when first asked inflated the price by a euro or two, when confronted with the price on the board the usual argument is that the place you are asking to go is not directly in town. The size of most of the towns on Rhodes kind of makes this laughable, but most drivers have ended up agreeing to the posted price.
MONEY, MONEY MONEY....
Another thing that seems to worry and confuse would-be travelers is foreign currency. There are some people who reference this as one of the anxieties that causes them the most hesitancy about traveling abroad. But, having just stepped outside for a second and seen the white village of Lindos below me as I write this, it would be sad to miss an experience like this over a simple inability to convert currencies. Another aspect of spending money abroad that befuddles some is converting currency to an understandable value once they arrive. Fortunately, I have a reliable solution to that as well.
First, don’t shy away from using foreign currency. I’ve seen travelers pack hundreds of dollars in U.S. currency of different denominations just to avoid using the native money. While credit cards can be a lifeline, and are increasingly accepted in even the most remote places, they are not accepted everywhere.
As with many aspects of travel, technology has come to the rescue to some extent. We recently spent 30 days in London without spending any actual cash, except on “pocket tissues” using leftover currency Jennie and I had collected during past trips (most of which was unspendable for other reasons), and on the final day when I had to get rid of a five-pound note I won on a bar bet. London is virtually cashless, and Stockholm is going that way as well. In fact, we took out some Swedish krona to gamble with on our cruise (turned out we needed Euros) and had a hard time spending it over the next few weeks because most establishments simply would not accept cash. As technology advances, you are far more likely to find yourself in a cashless environment where you simply tap your card and the conversion to U.S. dollars is done right before your eyes.
Still, my suggestion is to take out a predetermined amount of the local currency at the airport upon arrival, right before getting into the cab to your first destination. It is never a guarantee that you will be able to pay a cab driver with a credit card. While there is a slight chance the driver or other merchants might accept U.S. dollars, if they do, you will be entirely at their mercy. The exchange rate will not be good, and it’s unlikely you’ll understand it anyway.
To resolve any worries you have about how to obtain the necessary foreign currency and how to spend it once you have it, there are some tried-and-true methods. First, figure out the exchange rate before you go. There are plenty of apps and online sites that will do this for you. Second, to avoid having to type the amount into a calculator every time you look at the price tag of a t-shirt, create a mental cheat sheet. On our recent trip to Sweden, the math was easy: 100 krona equals approximately $10.00 ($10.17 to be exact), making the mental breakdown relatively straightforward. It’s not always that easy, especially in countries like Uganda, where 1 U.S. dollar equals roughly 3,939 Ugandan shillings. That looks intimidating, but if you round up on your mental cheat sheet and equate 1 U.S. dollar to 4,000 shillings, you’ll only be off by about one cent for every dollar. There is not much risk of going broke over a rounding error that small.
Second, use an ATM to get your cash. Gone are the days of traveler's checks, finding a place that would accept them, and ensuring you’d adhered to the signature/countersignature protocol. Also on its way out is the Cambio or currency exchange bureau. Depending on the country, these can range from a sterile, official transaction with a teller in an airport to a transaction on the street with a fast-talking hawker, which feels more like paying off a weekly balance with a bookie than exchanging legal tender. A foreign ATM provides direct access to cash at standard interbank exchange rates, which are significantly more favorable and cost-effective than the steep markups charged by official money changers, and vastly better than the rates you'll get on the street. ATMs also offer unmatched convenience by allowing you to withdraw local currency in manageable amounts, avoiding the safety risks associated with carrying large cushions of pre-exchanged cash.
This strategy is entirely contingent on you avoiding fees by adopting two simple habits. First, always choose to be billed in the local currency rather than U.S. dollars when prompted by the machine. This rejects Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC), a notorious trap that allows the local ATM operator to apply a heavily marked-up, inflated exchange rate. Second, completely eliminate out-of-network penalties and operator surcharges by opening a travel-friendly account. Institutions like Charles Schwab (which we’ve used for years), Fidelity, and Betterment offer specialized checking accounts that provide unlimited worldwide ATM fee refunds and charge zero foreign transaction fees.
It also seems appropriate to address an ancillary issue not necessarily related to foreign currency but which can be anxiety-inducing just the same. Just as finding an ATM in a town you're not familiar with in the U.S. can be difficult, ending up in the rare situation where a business doesn’t take credit cards happens at home as well (our local Chinese restaurant, for instance). However, when this happens and you’re in a foreign country, it significantly heightens anxiety levels. While getting stuck without acceptable funds while traveling is stressful, encountering a complete financial dead-end is highly unlikely in today's interconnected world. Even in remote corners of the globe, the universal language of trade and hospitality means a solution is always within reach. On the very rare occasion you find yourself in a place with no ATMs, no card readers, and an empty pocket of local cash, human resourcefulness takes over.
Jennie and I have navigated these exact moments creatively all over the world. In the Lofoten Islands, there was only one ATM, and because of its distance from the mainland, the machine frequently ran out of cash, we simply got up early and made sure we were first in line when it opened to access the funds. In Nicaragua, we arrived at our hotel late at night, after an all-day bus ride only to be informed they didn't accept cards. Luckily, a friendly bar patron with a motorcycle generously offered to ride me back to the town where the bus had just dropped us off so I could grab cash. In Ometepe, when we didn't have enough cash to cover both our hotel and the excursions we’d taken at a remote lodge, the owner trusted us to ride to the ferry terminal, withdraw the money there, and hand it to our driver, who then brought it back to pay him.
Other times, we've relied on the kindness and creativity of guides. I once had a guide pay for our hotel upfront, and I reimbursed him later when we finally reached a location with a working ATM. Most recently in Rwanda, I borrowed $100 from a local tour guide who happened to know our guide just to pay a border crossing fee; in exchange, we gave him a ride to his house and stopped at an ATM along the way to pay him back. There are also increasingly secure peer-to-peer transfer systems that you can use via a phone’s hotspot, though many of these need to be downloaded in advance since they aren't always easily accessible with a U.S. phone number. Time and time again, hotel operators, tour guides, and locals have trusted us to go out and find whatever cash was needed to settle our balance (sometimes even leaving Jennie behind as "collateral!"). Communities in popular travel areas are entirely accustomed to helping travelers, and with a little patience and mutual trust, these financial hiccups transform into memorable stories rather than crises.
Ultimately, managing money in a foreign country doesn’t require an economics degree; it just requires a bit of preparation. By setting up the right banking account before you leave and learning to do a bit of mental math, you can completely eliminate the financial friction of international travel. Don't let the fear of a different currency keep you from booking a ticket. The world is too interesting, and the places awaiting you are too cool, to let a little bit of change stand in your way.
Pack for Reality to Avoid Overpacking
Some people are able to walk off a twelve-hour flight, bypass the baggage carousel, and step straight out into a new city. They’re entirely free. Realistically, not everyone is cut out to be a hardcore minimalist. We personally don’t travel with just a tiny rucksack, and I’m not suggesting you become a bohemian backpacker who glides from hostel to hostel. But, in most cases, we limit ourselves to just one main backpack apiece weighing less than 25 lbs. Even if we choose to check it to keep our hands free at the airport and avoid security hassles and overhead bin nightmares, keeping the weight that low means no aching shoulders and no struggling to lift a massive suitcase onto a crowded bus or subway car. We also bring one “carry-on” apiece containing our camera gear. Because photography is a passion, that camera is our one non-negotiable item. Many people have told me that they could never reach even that level of minimalism. I’m saying you can, and that each step you take toward bringing less stuff with you is liberating.
You do not need to become a strict minimalist overnight to reap the rewards of traveling lighter; it’s a spectrum. Wherever you currently sit on that spectrum, you can take steps to get closer to lighter travel, and in the end, you’ll be surprised at how little you actually need and how much better it feels not to have to carry extra stuff from place to place.
First, Ignore the “What-ifs”
Many people pack for scenarios that will likely never happen: “What if I get invited to a wedding while on the trip?”, “What if there is a sudden drop in temperature, even though it’s summer?”, “What if I need my hair dryer/curling iron/travel pillow/full-sized toiletries/flashlight?” To truly pack light, you have to drop the "what-ifs" and shift to a more practical question: "What is the worst-case scenario if I do not bring this?" In 99% of cases, the answer to that question is easily solved. If it rains, you buy an umbrella from a street vendor. Most hotels and Airbnb’s have hair dryers. If you absolutely need a piece of clothing due to an unexpected change in weather or a wedding invite—and there is a good chance you won’t—buy it. In an emergency, you can buy toiletries, basic clothing, and medicine almost anywhere on earth. Don’t pack for hypothetical emergencies; pack for reality.
When packing for any journey of more than a week, pack seven days' worth of underwear. For everything else, try this standard formula: pack as if you’re going away for five days. Don’t pack a unique outfit for every day or try to anticipate all the things you might need for all the days you’ll be away; instead:
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Pack for the number of days listed above, including the clothes you wear on the plane (i.e., be wearing one of the 5 outfits). When you’ve reached the end of the rotation, simply wash a few items and repeat. Bring a stain remover pen and travel-size odor-eliminating fabric spray for spot cleaning.
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Stick strictly to a cohesive color palette. Pack three tops for every bottom. If an item only works with one specific outfit, leave it at home.
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Pack clothes made from materials that naturally resist odors, are breathable, and dry quickly—stuff you can wash in the sink. Avoid denim and 100% cotton.
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Tightly roll your clothes instead of folding to eliminate pockets of air and prevent wrinkles. Packing cubes, some of which allow you to eliminate excess air, can be helpful.
Embrace Doing Laundry and Only Pack Travel-Sizes
Doing laundry while on vacation can be a great way to meet locals or experience another side of a location, but if that's not for you, it does not have to mean spending hours inside a laundromat.
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Wash socks and underwear in the sink every few nights. Hang them up to dry overnight and they should be ready by morning.
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Don’t bring laundry detergent; bring dry laundry detergent strips. They take up less space and won’t leak in your bag.
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For toiletries, stick to travel-sized instead of full-sized. This also helps if you need to keep certain items in your carry-on in case luggage gets lost. Basics like shampoo and sunscreen can be purchased at your destination if the travel-size items you bring run out.
Only Bring the Shoes and Accessories You’ll Definitely Need
Shoes and tech accessories are the fastest ways to accidentally overpack your bag. Don’t fall into the trap of trying to anticipate every need.
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Shoes take up the most physical space. Limit yourself to a maximum of two pairs. Wear your bulkiest, heaviest pair (like hiking boots or sneakers) on travel days, and pack a single, flat pair of versatile shoes in your luggage.
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Don’t pack a thick jacket, sweater, or heavy boots inside your luggage. Wear those items onto the airplane or train. You can always take your jacket off and use it as a pillow once you are in your seat.
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Skip specialized travel pillows or niche electronic gadgets unless they are absolutely necessary. If you aren't a professional photographer, leave the heavy gear behind; your phone can handle your navigation, photography, and reading materials, and you’re bringing that anyway.
Double Halve
Skillful packing takes practice and you will likely not achieve "one-bag perfection" on your very next vacation. If the 5-day rule feels too rigid, try the “double halves rule” instead. First, lay out everything you intend to pack and immediately remove exactly half of the items, keeping in mind the concepts discussed above. Then repeat the process by cutting the remaining pile in half a second time. Lastly, close the luggage and don’t open it until you arrive at your destination.
By letting go of the "what-ifs" and aiming to get to a lighter load through halving what you would usually bring twice (or at least as close as you can get to that goal on the first try), you will spend less time packing, less money on airline baggage fees, and more time enjoying the journey without dragging unnecessary items around the world.
Getting to and from the airport - Pay the Exhaustion Tax
The best feeling after getting off a long flight, aside from realizing your luggage actually made it with you, is having someone waiting for you at the airport holding a sign with your (in our case, misspelled) last name on it. Certain hotels provide this service gratis, while others do it for a fee. Assuming you don’t have such an arrangement, my advice is to splurge on the way in.
No matter how you arrive at a destination, unless you’re driving your own car, you’ll likely land at a large, centrally located hub like a bus terminal, train station, airport, or ferry terminal. From there, you still have to get to wherever you are sleeping. Many of these hubs are serviced by public transit that can get you close to your destination at an affordable price. Most guidebooks, GPS apps, or AI tools can walk you through how to use these options and save money compared to a taxi.
But my advice is to splurge and take the cab. It goes against my inherent cheapness, but there are good reasons for it.
First, you likely just got off a long flight, bus ride, or train trip, leaving you sleep-deprived. Do you really want to screw around with logistics at that point? Figuring out the schedule of an airport shuttle or "air train" is one thing; getting a ticket is another, especially if you need local currency. Even if you clear those hurdles, where does that train or bus actually drop you off? You could easily end up dragging your luggage through the streets of an unfamiliar city, searching for your hotel after being deposited in an amorphous location known as the “city center” and in some cases, resorting to a cab to get you where you're going anyway.
Consider the frustration of trying to save a buck in massive, sprawling hubs. Take London or Paris, for example. If you land at London Heathrow, trying to navigate the Tube or the Heathrow Express while carrying multiple bags and operating on three hours of sleep can be, to use a military term of art “a clusterfuck.” In Paris, the RER B train from Charles de Gaulle Airport into the city center is infamous for steep stairs, packed cars, and pickpockets targeting tourists. When you factor in the high cost of these "express" airport trains anyway, you aren't even saving that much.
Save yourself the agony. Even though it feels like a rip-off, take an official taxi on day one. Make sure it is an authorized cab operating within the airport's official system. If a flat rate isn't available (which it likely won’t be if you're at a train, bus, or ferry terminal), ask the driver to use the meter or agree on a price beforehand (a quick Google search or Lonely Planet perusal can give you a ballpark figure). If all goes well, you will get door-to-door service, help with your luggage, and zero of the frustration that comes from trying to save a buck when you are exhausted. You’re paying a little extra to keep your sanity.
As an aside, never agree to and especially never prepay for a return ride with the same driver or company. Some drivers will try to lock you in at the same price (or a slightly discounted rate) to give you "one less thing to worry about." It seems like a good idea at the time, but airport taxi fees are often inflated or fixed at a premium. The return trip from the city center back to the airport, even in a cab, is often much cheaper.
Even better, your return trip is when your inner cheapskate can finally be invoked. Take some time over the next few days to figure out the cheapest way back to the terminal. Your well-rested self can rationally weigh options, seek advice, and plan the return trip with zero pressure, relying on a better sense of geography and your actual departure time.
You might even find that getting back to the airport is cheap or completely free. For instance, if you find yourself in a place like Luxembourg, the entire country has 100% free public transit. Taking the tram or bus from the city center back to Luxembourg Airport costs exactly zero dollars. Sure, you’ll have a fleeting thought that you could have gotten from the airport to your hotel for free as well, but picture yourself dragging your luggage through the casemates because you didn’t know exactly where your hotel was, and don’t look back.
Or, you can wait until the last minute, do no research, and take a cab back to the airport anyway. It's up to you—something keeps these guys in business.
Facing new foods - remember, at one point in your life, you didn’t like anything except milk
As a child, all food was new to you, and trying a single bite meant going out on a limb. You tried ice cream, and you liked it. You tried cauliflower, liver, or some other stereotypical thing that kids hate and it just wasn’t your thing. You built your palate from there. Some things you like, some things you love, and some things are merely tolerable. As an adult, however, you have probably narrowed it down to only a few items you absolutely won’t touch, and even those you could likely eat in a pinch.
Yet, a lot of travelers, especially Americans, feel anxiety about the food available to them in foreign countries. For the average, allergy-free traveler, the idea of going someplace where the menu is in another language, with flavors outside their familiar day-to-day tastes, leaves them afraid that they won’t find a single thing to eat. Others go, but their food neophobia, a fancy term for the fear of new food, confines them to scanning the menu for the closest possible facsimile to what they know. They limit their dining to places that meet the criteria for a familiar emotional support blanket. Instead of embracing a potential culinary awakening, they convince themselves that they will spend an expensive, hard-earned vacation starving, all while staring at an unfamiliar menu filled with ingredients they have never heard of.
It is easier now than it has ever been to avoid giving in to this culinary fear. You don't have to start by eating fried scorpions on a stick. Almost every single culture on Earth has a universally un-intimidating, crowd-pleasing comfort food that even the pickiest eater can handle. I’m talking about basic stepping stones like pasta, cacio e pepe is basically just adult mac and cheese, so hopefully you aren't shying away from Italy because of the food, chicken, or what up an coming food critic Nilo Mehrabian points out is a nearly universal global constant: the simple, comforting combination of grilled meat, beans and rice.
To bridge the gap further, try leveraging the one familiar ingredient rule when looking at a foreign menu. If there is a protein or a vegetable you love, like chicken, potatoes, or shrimp, order that dish, even if it comes with an unfamiliar sauce or spice. This gives you a safe starting point while allowing the local culinary culture to introduce itself subtly. By focusing on the components you already know and trust, a completely foreign dish suddenly transforms from a gamble into an adventure. Plus, you can always activate your phone, point your camera at the menu and turn the terrifying foreign mystery into plain English.
You can also lean into the methods you rely on when dining in your home city. There you rarely order blindly (if you do stick to that). You look at photos, read reviews, or ask the server for the house specialty. Apply that same strategy abroad by researching a country's national dish before you land. If you're paranoid about food safety, just look for the spots overflowing with local families, if a restaurant is packed, it means the food moves fast, it's fresh, and the locals haven't died from it yet. Understanding why a culture loves a specific dish might take away the fear factor. It can turn a potentially strange plate of food into a cultural event you get to participate in and tell a story about, shifting your mindset from survival to exploration.
Booking a local food tour on day one is another excellent strategy. A local guide can walk you through the menu so you don't accidentally order tripe, giving you the confidence to navigate restaurants for the rest of your trip.
And if all else fails? Remember that grocery stores exist everywhere, meaning you can always easily buy a fresh loaf of bread, some cheese, and a bag of potato chips to survive the night. Of course, you also realize that American fast-food chains have successfully colonized nearly every square inch of the globe. You could fly to another country just to gravitate toward the golden arches and order the exact same value meal you eat at home, but please, try to resist that temptation. Though, honestly, if spending ten straight days in Paris eating exclusively at McDonald’s, KFC, and Subway is the only thing keeping you from actually booking the flight, do what you gotta do. It’s better to see the Eiffel Tower with a Big Mac in hand than to stay home. Either way, you will never actually starve, so you might as well let your guard down, try some saffron ice cream with carrot juice and enjoy yourself. There will almost certainly be a personal sense of accomplishment associated with successfully ordering a completely authentic local dish, and surviving to tell the tale, and you get to brag to everyone at home about your incredibly sophisticated, worldly palate.
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